What Is Momme (mm) and Why Does It mean?

When you're choosing silk fabric for textile art—whether it’s for eco leaf printing, felting, natural dyeing, or even garment sewing—one of the most important (but often confusing) details to consider is the weight of the silk fabric, often measured in momme, abbreviated as mm.

What Is Momme (mm)?

Momme (pronounced “mommy”) is a Japanese unit of weight used specifically for silk fabrics. It tells you how heavy or dense the fabric is. Technically, it means the weight in pounds of a piece of silk fabric that is 45 inches wide and 100 yards long.

• The higher the momme, the heavier and opaquer the silk fabric.
• The lower the momme, the lighter and more sheer it is.

Why Momme Matters for Eco Printing & Dyeing

• Very light weight (3-5mm) Very fine semitransparent for subtle delicate prints, like floaty chiffon or light crisp organza. 
• Lightweight silks (5–8mm) absorb dyes quickly and give soft, flowing effects. They work beautifully for layered Nuno felting or delicate botanical prints.
• Midweight silks (10–12mm) hold their shape better and often give sharper, more defined eco prints.
• Heavier silks (14mm and above) can feel more structured and luxurious and are fantastic for pieces where durability matters—but they may require more mordanting or longer processing times to fully absorb natural colours.

Why Momme Matters for Sewing & Felting

• For sewing garments, momme affects how your fabric hangs, drapes, and wears. A chiffon-weight silk will move very differently from a 19mm silk satin!
• For felting, lighter weights (5–8mm) bond beautifully with wool, while heavier weights may resist fusion or require more coaxing with soap and agitation.

You Can Feel the Difference

If you’re not sure what momme you’re working with, feel the fabric between your fingers.

• Does it feel wispy and float away? Likely 5mm.
• Does it feel sturdy but still soft? Probably 10–12mm.
• Opaque and thick with a satin feel? You’re in the 14–19mm range.

Choosing the Right Weight for Your Project

• Do I want crisp prints or soft, watery ones?
• Will the silk need to hold its shape or drape fluidly?
• Am I layering or felting it?
• Is this a beginner-friendly fabric for students?

I usually recommend 8–10mm habotai silk fabric for most eco printing and beginner dye projects—it’s forgiving, takes colour well, and handles easily.

Silk is an extraordinary fibre, and once you understand how momme affects the look and feel, you’ll be able to choose the perfect silk fabric for every project with confidence.

If you'd like to experiment with silk of different weights, come along to one of my workshops—we always have samples to test, touch, and transform!

Warmly,
Jacqueline Damon
Tweed Valley Textile Company